FAQ
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+ Have you heard the new Acme Canine jingle?Congratulations go out to
CLIFFORD BENJAMIN!
Clifford's jingle was just the catchy tune we were looking for, and fits in well with our personality. Coming to a radio, sock hop or iPod near you soon!
About Clifford Benjamin:
Clifford Benjamin (Carl), a Mississippi native, is a multi-instrumentalist with a unique ability to express emotion in musical progressions. He comes from a family of talented musicians and artists which helped to expand his creative imagination.
Clifford's musical background has included writing and performing gospel music at inspirational events. He has written a theme song for the state of Mississippi and has composed music for a theme song for Canton, MS. He has also composed for the Christian television talk show "The Hannah Hopkins Show", and has provided percussion for various workshops, choirs and inspirational events, including one workshop led by David Curry, Jr. He has served as percussionist for Tabernacle of Prayer COGIC of Hattiesburg, MS. He has also served as a composer for start-up publishing company B.R. Enterprises.
The lyrics:
Verse 1
When your puppy needs help, you don't know what to do,
Acme Canine will see you through.
They work with your schedule, you'll be very pleased
Professional service meets all your canine needs (Acme Canine)
Chorus
Acme Canine, (training very slick).
Acme Canine, (let them teach your puppy tricks).
Acme Canine, (training everyone).
Acme Canine, (it's so much fun).
(ruff-ruff, ruff, ruff)
Verse 2
Teaching canines, and owners what to do,
Acme Canine, you'll love us, it's true.
Come join the fun, with the puppy thrills
Acme Canine, improve your dog handling skills.
Contact Acme Canine and tell us what you think!
+ I am in the process of choosing a dog for the family. Can Acme Canine help me?
+ Why should I choose to have our dog train with Acme Canine?
At Acme Canine we believe in life-long dog training and coaching so our clients form a happy relationship with their dogs that lasts a life time!
+ What makes Acme Canine different from other training facilities?
• Training for the real world using real-life distractions (not just teaching obedience but incorporating commands into everyday life in order to maintain a well-mannered caring pet)
• Treating our client’s dogs as if it was our own (individualized attention, doing the extras such as handfeeding, extra walks, brushing their dog, trimming nails, bathing, playtime, etc)
• Assisting our clients even after training is complete (answering questions, providing resources for equipment, nutrition, help w/death of dog, newsletter, tricks of month, etc)
• Covering all aspects of our client’s canine relationship (health, nutrition, grooming and how it relates to having a well-mannered dog)
• Providing dog related services from selecting the breed of dog, helping to pick out the perfect personality of puppy, socializing the puppy, teaching the dog manners and assisting our client to have a life-long quality canine relationship
• Giving back to the community (pro bono work with rescue groups, educational classes at libraries, auction donations
• Educating the public (e-newsletter, articles, NBC4, etc)
+ Why should I have my dog trained by a Certified Professional Trainer?
To an un-trained eye, dog training looks easy when they watch the 'dance' between handler and animal. What it actually is portraying is the skill and knowledge amassed over many years and many dogs. Not just the puppies, but the adults too. The dangerous ones and the easy ones. Each dog is an equal contributor to a professional trainers' skills and education. There have been many new things learned about animal behavior, dogs in particular. Why do dogs do what they do? A Certified Professional Trainer not only understands why, but is intuitive to the necessary changes that need to occur in order to intervene, avert and ultimately eliminate inappropriate behaviors.
All Acme Canine trainers have attended classes, passed tests and received certification from the National K9 School for Dog Trainers to professionally train dogs. A professional trainer has a genuine interest and concern for the improvement of the mental and physical well-being of dogs. One of the most valuable skills a professional trainer has is their ability to utilize their techniques specific for the dog they are training. Training techniques should be based on evaluating the personality of the dog and the needs of its owner. From this a trainer can offer direction on raising that type, breed and temperament of puppy and later formulate an appropriate training program to successfully train the dog and educate it’s owners in handling and modifying their dog’s behavior.
+ What is a canine assessment and why is it needed to train with Acme Canine?
+ What areas does Acme Canine service?
+ Private In home training vs Residency training: Which to choose?
For each person, how your dog is now and how it will be once trained, offers a unique understanding of "training." So as you consider what way to proceed with training, the cost is relative and depends on the resources you have and are prepared to invest in training your dog.
Private in home training and residency training each have their advantages when teaching manners to our dogs. Whatever program you choose, your dog will be better trained than before working with Acme Canine. Our certified professional trainers will build a foundation through which you are able to communicate with your dog. With this foundation you will gain more respect, focus, and bond from you canine companion. In addition, all of Acme Canine’s programs teach our clients how to handle, how to speak, how to correct, how to fade body language, etc. so you can assume the leadership role and better communicate with your dog.
+ I’ve heard about clicker training, do you offer such a service?
+ I would like to include my family in the dog training, is that possible?
+ Do you train therapy dogs?
+ At what age can I start training my puppy?
+ My dog is five years or older. Can I still train him?
+ We’ve had dogs before and our puppy plays with dogs in the neighborhood, why should we bring it to Acme Canine’s puppy preschool?
Exposing your puppy at an early age to a variety of sounds, sights and objects will build confidence and develop a bond between you and your dog. Through handling exercises the puppy becomes desensitized to sudden pats, nail trimming, veterinary check ups and new situations. Teaching a puppy how to fit into a domestic world also makes training easier. Puppy training should be a pleasurable learning experience for everyone involved. Acme Canine can also assist you with correcting playbiting, accidents in the house, barking and other behavior issues. Contact Acme Canine for more information.
+ Can I train my puppy even though it hasn't had all of its necessary shots?
Our PUPPY PRESCHOOL program is built around 4 weekly group sessions which you are able to determine when and how often to attend. We evaluate the personality type and temperament of your puppy and offer direction on how to set your puppy up for success for the rest of its life. Class size is limited to 6 puppies in order to provide individualized attention.
Topics that will be covered include communicating effectively with your pup, house breaking, the importance of socialization, confidence building exercises, using nice leash manners, nutrition, safe toys and safe homes, grooming, basic problem solving (how do you stop that play biting?), keeping your puppy healthy, and much, much more!
+ My puppy seems to be aggressively biting me, why is that? Should I be concerned that something is wrong with his personality?
+ My dog is aggressive, is there a way to help him?
+ I actually have two or more dogs. Can they all be trained at the same time?
+ My dog is having accidents in the house, can Acme Canine help me?
Our training begins with teaching the dog that both it and its crate are to be kept clean. Your dog will be set up to be successful with numerous trips outside throughout the day and bathed each time it has an accident in its crate. Once your dog has an understanding, we move on to teaching the dog to eliminate outside on command in a certain location. We provide daily email updates and tips while your dog is with us and a progress report with suggestions when your dog is returned. Before any housetraining can occur we ask that your dog be up to date on vaccinations, not on any antibiotics and also vet checked for parasites, urinary tract infection and receive a clean bill of health.
Rather than keep your dog for a month to establish the pattern, we send it home after 10-14 days on a strict schedule to enforce what the dog has learned. We find this helps the dog transition better to your home and the housetraining. We also include a take home session and a follow up session in your home to work with you and whatever housetraining problems may still exist. We've found that a bit of obedience helps with the process so in addition to establishing housetraining, we teach your dog some basic manners and the place command (which is similar to a crate without walls).
Since you ultimately need to continue with the housetraining pattern it is difficult to offer a money back guarantee unless you allow me to live in your home with you when your dog is returned.
+ I noticed your prices on your services page but how does payment work?
+ What is the best way to introduce a new dog to the family?
When bringing home a new animal, the most important thing to remember is to protect the animal which is in danger of getting injured. Your dog must always be on a leash during the introduction. Dogs are "pack" oriented. In their world, you are part of their pack, and considered in charge (I hope). If a dog does not know that this new addition is going to be part of the family, he will not protect it and probably try to kill it or chase it off. It takes a few days for this to happen. If the dog shows aggressive behavior towards the new pet, it is your job to tell him no, you want this new addition to be part of the family. If you watch an informative dog show, you will see that they are generally not very forgiving. If one dog oversteps his boundaries, he is viciously warned. So warn your dog and protect the innocent, vulnerable animals.
Introducing a New Dog to Your Family Dog
When you first bring your new dog home, introduce them in a neutral setting, like the front yard, or somewhere that the existing family dog does not normally go. This way, he will not be protective of his surroundings. Both dogs should be on a leash and given little slack, held by people strong enough to hold their respective dog back. A choke collar is effective in these situations. Let them meet, watching their actions and getting ready to retrieve the dogs from each other. Sniffing vigorously is normal, including private areas. Dogs get to know each other through their scent. If one or both of the dogs starts to act aggressively, paired with raised fur on the top shoulders and haunches, walk each dog further apart and have the dog focus on you. You can re-assure them that they are OK verbally but avoid any form of reassurance if they continue to bark or show aggressive signs—this would only reinforce the aggression. When each one calms down, re-introduce them until they are sniffing and acquainting themselves without fur raising and aggression.
If they are not getting along at all, it is best to have them near each other, but separated by a physical boundary such as a fence. Two crates, where they can see and smell each other but not get at each other, will work well. Put each dog in their crate, and push them closer and closer together as time goes on and their growling/aggressiveness subsides. When they are comfortable near each other in their crates, try introducing them again in the same way as described earlier. Dogs will get along better when they are opposite sexes, or they have been neutered or spayed. Un-neutered males tend to be more aggressive and territorial. Keeping them in separate rooms until they get along while unsupervised is the wisest idea.
Introducing a New Puppy to Your Family Dog
Introducing a puppy to a grown dog is usually pretty easy. With your large dog on a leash and held by someone who can restrain him, allow the puppy, who is also on a leash, to approach the dog. Watch for their body language! If fur is standing, be on alert! If you aren't sure, separate them, don't take a chance. If they are not seeming like they are getting along, look into hiring a dog trainer. It's worth the time and money, and usually cheaper than the vet!
Introducing a New Dog or Puppy to Your Family Cat or Rabbit
If you already have cats or rabbits or other animals that a dog can easily kill, this is a very fragile and serious situation. If your dog is a puppy, your life just got much easier. If the dog is full grown, you should have been told how your new dog acts around other animals. Take caution! People are not always truthful because they want to find a home for their dog. They might say that the dog is good with children, other pets, but be skeptical, over cautiousness is better than injuries and/or death to a valued family member, pets or human. In the case of introducing a new dog to an existing cat or rabbit, a dog trainer might be the best way to ensure that your animals are safe and your dog is assimilated easier. As usual, the dog should always be restrained to prevent injury to your animals. You don't want him to get loose and be able to get to your new pet. Cats and rabbits rarely survive dog attacks, and when they do it is usually costly. Trust should not be given since you do not know this dog. Remember, a taut leash and conservative measures are always best.
If you are introducing a puppy to a full grown cat, provided your puppy is not big enough to hurt the cat, no sweat. You can let the cat teach the puppy. To be safe, keep your puppy on a leash and bring him to the cat. The puppy will be curious, and if he gets too close the cat will swat him. This is his first lesson and if the puppy runs away you can be assured that your cat is probably safe. If the puppy goes after the cat, hold the leash tight and tell him "NO!" with a strong and loud tone. Again, a choke collar is always more effective than a regular collar. In this situation, the puppy should not be allowed to be free when the cat is around, until he learns that the cat is part of the family and it is his job to protect the cat. Even though your puppy is small, he may still be able to cause damage to your cat.
If you have a rabbit, or other small free roaming animal, things are more difficult. Rabbits and other animals are prey to dogs. It is hard to teach them that they are not to hurt them. It is easier when the dog is a puppy, but a puppy can still easily hurt a rabbit. Rabbits have very small bones, and even a puppy can cause injury, especially if the puppy is a large breed. If you are not having any luck, consider a dog trainer. They can work wonders.
Introducing a Cat, Kitten or Rabbit to the Family Dog
If your dog is not used to cats or rabbits, the introduction is much harder and an expert should be consulted. If your dog is used to cats or rabbits, then all you have to do is teach him that your new pet is part of the family. Remember, restraining your dog is the most important thing. You don't want him to get loose and be able to get to your new pet. Cats and rabbits rarely survive dog attacks, and when they do it is usually costly.
First, let the new cat or rabbit investigate it's new home so she knows her way around and some idea of an escape route. After she has investigated the house, have your dog on a leash, and put the cat or rabbit down. Let your dog approach the pet and watch carefully for body language. Raised fur is not a good sign. Keep a taut leash, he should not have any room to be able to lunge! It can happen in a split second, so no fooling around! If your dog won't settle down, remove the cat or rabbit and try again later. Putting the cat or rabbit in a small cage where the dog can smell the pet but not have access is a good way to get your dog used to the smells of the new pet. After a little time you can retry the introduction, on a taut leash. If your dog will not stop being aggressive toward the new family addition, please hire a dog trainer to help.
+ How can I keep dogs & cats out of my garden?
Manufacturers have been flogging scent repellants for many years, but very few of them have shown any significant proof that they are useful in keeping cats from using your garden as a litterbox. Most of these were chemically based, and while they claimed to be harmless to cats or dogs, labels still carried warnings of toxic contents.
Some of the newer scent repellants, which can either be squirted around a garden, applied through a jug attached to your hose, or simply poured in a line around the perimeter, are largely organic in nature, containing a variety of ingredients from capsaicin pepper, to pure lemon juice, which is a scent that cats really don’t like. Some of these do work, but the difficulty is in keeping the scent strong enough to be a deterrent, since it will rinse off with each rain.
Cats also don’t like being sprayed with water, and while you can’t be in the yard lurking with a water gun, you can now buy motion-activated sprinklers, which will give a short burst of water, sprayed in the direction of the motion that triggers it. In the same vein, there are sonar devices that are also motion activated and pitched to a level that will irritate the ears of dogs and cats, but not humans. While they are successful for some people, if you have pets yourself, they aren’t a viable option.
You can discourage cats from digging, by eliminating the amount of surface dirt that is loose and inviting. This can be accomplished in a number of ways, from filling in around your plants with small rocks that are easily raked off for digging up the earth in autumn, to laying a criss-cross pattern of dead branches from thorny bushes, and letting plants grow up around them. If you don’t have access to bushes like this, try laying down some inexpensive wood lattice, or chain link fencing. Plants can be dug into the gaps, or links and cuts can be made where you need more space.
Outdoor cats have a shorter life span than indoor only pets, due to car accidents, predators, and diseases that can be picked up from other cats and animals. Responsible pet ownership is something you can encourage, but not force anyone to do. And as always, there are the unfortunate animals that are abandoned to their fates and become feral cats, living by their own wiles. Some homeowners choose “diversion” tactics for animals like this, and in many cases, it works very well.
Instead of waiting for them to make deposits in your nicely turned flower garden, you might try creating a turned up patch of earth in a distant corner of your yard. Plant catnip around it. The easier it is to access, the more likely cats are to go there, than in your vegetables. Some people will make a small, wood-framed “sandbox” that they fill with inexpensive moss, wood shavings, or other materials that the cats really enjoy. Once they find out how easy it is to use that, they’ll leave the real gardens alone. It’s particularly good when there is more than one or two cats involved, since they all like to mark their “territory” and will go where another has gone, just to make a point.
Dogs are another kettle of “fur” entirely. The scent repellants work even less on dogs, than on cats. Many people stand by the old favorite of mothballs around the garden, but there is always the chance they can be ingested and poison an animal. And depending on your municipality’s laws, you would be declared responsible. However, the same water sprays and sonar devices used on cats, may enjoy some success. If you are present when the pawing pooch is, sometimes a handheld air horn can do wonders for scaring the heck out of them, even if it annoys the neighbor who owns the dog!
+ What does the CPT after your trainers’ names stand for?
+ How can I identify lawn burn?
The cause of lawn burn
Lawn burn is caused by the nitrogen in dog urine. Because dog urine is very high in nitrogen, when the dog urinates, it is similar to pouring liquid fertilizer on the lawn. A little fertilizer is good for the grass, but an excess causes nitrogen burn. The prevention of lawn burn deals with trying to reduce the amount of nitrogen coming into contact with the grass.
Contributing factors
There are several contributing factors that increase the likelihood of developing lawn burn.
- Female dogs are more likely to cause lawn burn than males because they void their entire bladder in one location instead of lifting their leg and marking, like males.
- Large dogs deposit more urine so they increase the quantity of nitrogen in one location, making lawn burn more likely.
- Those dogs, usually young active dogs, fed a high protein diet are more likely to produce a urine that causes lawn burn.
- Heavily fertilized yards are already receiving near maximum levels of nitrogen. The small amount of nitrogen in dog urine may be all that is needed to put these lawns over the edge and cause lawn burn.
- Lawns that are stressed are more susceptible to damage. Lawns that are suffering from drought, disease, or are newly sodded or seeded are more susceptible to lawn burn.
- Saturate the urinated spots with water. After the pet urinates, pour several cupfuls of water on the spot to dilute the urine.
- Feed a high quality dog food that does not exceed the pet's protein requirement. High quality foods have more digestible protein sources that are more completely utilized by the pet and create less nitrogenous waste in the urine.
- Encouraging your dog to drink more, will help dilute the urine and decrease the risk of lawn burn. Small amounts of non-salted broth in the drinking water may help increase your dog's water intake.
- Train your dog to urinate in a location that is less visible. This approach is very effective for some owners that do not want to add supplements to their dogs' diet.
- Replant your yard with more urine-resistant grasses. The most resistant grasses tend to be perennial ryegrasses and fescues. The most sensitive tend to be Kentucky bluegrass and Bermuda.
- Feed your dog a supplement like Green-UM or Drs. Foster and Smith Lawn Guard, or apply a product to the lawn such as Dogonit Lawn Treatment. These products bind and neutralize the nitrogen in your pet's urine.
- Reduce the stress on your lawn by not over- or under-fertilizing and by providing frequent watering.
- If neighbors' dogs are causing the problem, you may advise your neighbors of the leash laws. Using a fence or motion-activated sprinkler may be helpful in keeping these dogs off of your lawn.
We have received a ton of questions on dog urine spots this year, probably because it has been a very dry April. Dog urine will burn leaf blades because the high concentration of salts in the urine will pull water out of the leaf dehydrating the leaf. This problem is exaggerated by warm and/or dry weather hastening water movement out of the leaf, thus increasing rate and degree of burn. Unfortunately, there are only two solutions to preventing urine spots. Preventing the dog from urinating on the turf is the best option. The second, less effective option is to thoroughly water the area where the dog has urinated, preferably prior to the urine drying on the leaf. A very remote solution could be to replant with a species called alkali grass (aka. Fultz weeping alkali grass) may be able to withstand the salts better than our traditional lawn grasses like bluegrass, ryegrass and tall fescue. Unfortunately, this grass doesn’t withstand IN summers in the southern 1/2 to 2/3rds of the state and it must be irrigated to survive in northern IN. Given the inevitable loss of our traditional turf species to dog urine, we have very little to lose and it might be worth the risk on regularly irrigated lawns.
References and Further Reading
Hand, Thatcher, Remillard, Roudebush. Small Animal Clinical Nutrition 4th edition. Walsworth Publishing Company. Marceline, MO; 2000.
Lewis, L; Morris, M; Hand, M; Small Animal Clinical Nutrition 3rd edition. Mark Morris Associates. Topeka, KS; 1987.
Zac Reicher, Associate Professor/Turfgrass Extension Specialist Purdue University